In high fashion I have chosen to blog about Clive Rundle one of my favourite designers to work with.
Often the brief with Clive Rundle looked something like this:
A Tailors Mannequin pinned with ribbons was delivered to my studio. Followed by a verbal discussion and clarification of fit, silhouette and block origination where I take notes of what Clive is saying. Later for a press release Clive wrote this description of the collection.
“This collection began with the idea that this single pattern would be the construction that contained the full Idea of the collection within it. It would have built into it the ability to not only be beautiful but also a sexy corset - a pair of pants - all that is required to make up key pieces of a collection
The sinews of this pattern and the sinews of one’s body closely correlate. This is the way the patterns tension design technique and detail work. Every single pink ribbon becomes a working tunnel through which ribbons etc. would be pulled through – not only to create a shape but a simple gap in the tunnel would allow a ribbon to pass to the outside and become a single bow on an entire garment. Along the length of the tunnels any kind of detailing can be inserted not only for aesthetic but also for the mechanics required of a corset – absolute body fit + shape”
Clive
What the following pictures outline is the concept of one pattern being translated into many styles successfully, without watering down the integrity of the design. Clive Rundle is the master of pattern permutation.
We would start with the base; in this case the 40 Panels dress as outlined in the brief, and then add volume. From there it is a case of adding or omitting panels, shoulder girdles and other details. This means that his cutting room is highly trained to read and translate often very complicated cutting orders. (Never underestimate the value of specialised staff or a simple cutting order)
The cutting order and bundle of cut work then goes to the sample machinist. In Clive Rundle’s studio, there are no factory workers it is a small highly effective team of experts, who have become a loyal band having worked with Clive for decades. The cutting order will serve to guide and instruct the sample machinist as to how the garment is being put together. This is integral, as often there is no stitching sample to follow, the sewing of the garment is totally original, the machinist is aware that nothing can be assumed in the sewing process. For example; if you look carefully at the following pictures in the shoulder girdle area. The same area has been treated completely differently. In one garment it is sewn very straight forward, join this to that to complete the front. In another it is bag out the top shoulder pieces separately from the bodice, in order to create a lapel collar effect. In another it is omit the shoulder completely joining the panel to form a thin strap. Obviously, Clive is in constant supervision of the detailed sewing process, Pure Genius!
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