When it comes to choosing a patternmaker it really comes to being able to connect and relate. Not that you have to enjoy their personality, but do they communicate well, and do they understand what you are asking for and describing.
You can expect after a consultation to get a master pattern or blocks usually in 5 working days. Depending on what was negotiated your pattern will be clearly marked with Style Number, size, pattern piece name and cutting instruction. S.O.G clearly marked, guestimate rating on width of fabric specified, and in pencil special sewing details highlighted and perhaps a basic technical drawing.
The pattern should be delivered on a hangar that is covered by a sleeve of pattern board, clearly labelled with the Style Number, Clients Label name and size.
Once the first sample fitting has been critiqued refinement of master pattern would be for your cost. If there are corrections to the pattern this cost should be absorbed by the pattern maker.
When collecting your patterns from grading spend a few moments checking the graded nest of patterns. It is immediately obvious if the set is accurate across all sizes according to specifications.
From time to time pattern makers may need to assist CMT’s with queries they might have throughout the sewing process, do QA assurance, Preproduction sample approval, Preparation and on-line inspection, Factory visits. All of this is within the scope of a good patternmaker depending on what has been contracted.
Style File: This is a documented record of all the designs that have gone into pattern production. Its records pattern number and style name. The standard of the technical drawings must be to scale. Ideally the balance of the proportions needs to be synergized. Therefore, the skirts need to be on one template, so the size reads consistently and in so doing it will follow that the pants will be the same waist size as the skirts. Following on in template size order:
· Coat,
· Car Coat,
· Jacket,
· Waistcoat,
· Dress,
· Blouse,
· Camisole
· Slacks and skirts
General attention to detail depicting clean lines, smoothly blended curves, and stitching details depicted.
Lastly, I suggest that the hardboard patterns should be kept in a room on rails in a style file order with a correct sealed stitching sample. Considering this is a designer’s intellectual capital more should be done to keep patterns in order, safe and easily accessible. As the company diversifies into the different labels there should be an existing file and rail for each label.
I supply a database of Pattern Maker and Graders all of whom I have audited their pattern making skills. The list includes DIDGITAL and MANUAL depending on your production needs just pop me a mail and I will send it to you free of charge.
colleen@patternworks.co.za
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